A Week in Dubrovnik

We arrived in Dubrovnik on May 5th, finding the weather mild and the crowds manageable before the peak summer rush. Checking into our guesthouse just outside the main gate, we quickly learned that the city is defined by its stairs; you quickly adjust to the incline after the first few trips up to the room.

Our first morning was spent walking the City Walls. It takes about two hours to circle the perimeter, and it is best to go right when they open at 8:00 AM to avoid the heat and the cruise ship groups. The view over the terracotta rooftops is the best vantage point in the city.

The stone stairs are everywhere, so bring comfortable shoes and be prepared for a workout just to get to dinner.

Inside the Franciscan Monastery, we found the oldest pharmacy in the city. It has been operating since 1317, and it is a quiet spot to duck into when the main streets become too busy. They sell basic lotions and herbal mixes that are surprisingly affordable.

For meals, we stuck to the smaller konobas tucked away in the side alleys rather than the ones directly on the main square. A simple dinner of grilled fish or pasta usually cost us around $30 for two, which helped us stay well within our $160 daily budget.

We took a short boat ride over to Lokrum Island on our fifth day to get away from the stone streets. It is mostly parkland and peacocks, providing a good change of pace for an afternoon of reading by the water before heading back to the mainland for the evening.

By the end of the week, we felt like we had a good handle on the city's rhythm. The trick is to keep your schedule flexible and move away from the main thoroughfare of the Stradun during the middle of the day. It is a compact place, and after eight days, we felt like we had seen most of what mattered without feeling rushed.