Eight Days in Istanbul: From Sultanahmet to Kadıköy

We arrived in Istanbul on September 18th, settling into Tomtom Suites in Beyoğlu. It was a good home base, quiet enough to sleep but close enough to walk to the main ferry lines. Before leaving, remember to check your visa requirements online, as the e-visa process is straightforward but mandatory.

The next day, we jumped into the chaos of the Spice Bazaar. It is intense, but the Turkish delight samples make it worth the crowd. We found some calm nearby at the Rustem Pasha Mosque, which has incredible interior tiling that most people walk right past. For lunch, we stuck to the classics at Tarihi Yarımada Köftecisi, grabbing a simple plate of köfte and piyaz before walking the aisles of the Grand Bazaar.

On the 20th, we started with a massive Van-style breakfast at Van Kahvaltı Evi. Afterward, we headed to Deraliye Terrace Restaurant for a look at Ottoman-style cooking, followed by a necessary stop at Karaköy Güllüoğlu for baklava. The ferry ride across to Kadıköy is the best way to see the city skyline, and it only costs a few lira.

The ferry ride across to the Asian side is the best way to see the city skyline, and it costs almost nothing.

The Asian side felt like a different city. We spent the 21st wandering the Kadıköy Fish Market and eating at Ciya Sofrası, where the seasonal Anatolian menu was a highlight. We also tried Kanaat Lokantası for home-style cooking before ending the night having drinks along Kadıköy Barlar Sokağı.

Our final days were a mix of tourist staples and quiet corners. We took a morning Bosphorus cruise and stopped in Ortaköy specifically to try the kumpir, which is a massive baked potato loaded with toppings. We also had lunch at Neolokal, which is worth the reservation, and spent our last afternoon digging through the Çukurcuma Antique Shops before a final dinner with a view at Mikla and a walk through the lively Nevizade Street.